Hiking the PCT – Day Six: 23 Big Ones (as in miles)

Written by John Swart – From April 22, 2014 –

So after my very decadent night in Julian, I was totally renewed, refreshed (albeit a bit sick), and ready to crank out some miles. An incredibly nice gent named Darien hauled me the 12 miles back to the desert floor so I could begin the 3,000 foot, 18 mile climb before—yes—another descent to the desert. The sun was hot and unrelenting, with little or no shade. But the desert and mountain vistas were, as has been the case, very rewarding.

Saw hiker buddies along the way and shared community, which is always fun. Some of the folks were: LapdogDetour (German ladies), Zippy Morocco (new friend who lived in Asheville last winter), Jerrod and Katlin, Shutterbug, Smuggles, and Heat Wave, to name a few.

Took a long, much needed water break mid-day at the first water source, which was 14 miles in. Headed out at 4:30 p.m. to cover the next nine miles to the next water and camp spot. Thankfully, the trail headed down for the last five miles to a lovely spot amidst beautiful, towering live oaks and yummy spring water. The last few miles were in the dark. Being very exhausted, it was a matter of setting up the tent, woofing down some trail grub, and falling into the sack. I was serenaded to sleep by a very croaky frog.

This morning I had a rather leisurely eight-mile saunter through quite lovely rolling grassland, studded by oak groves and small creeks. I had the pleasure of observing a coyote grazing in the grasses and a very cute deer. Took several pictures that hopefully will give some idea of how beautiful it was.

I am now in the Warner Springs Community Center, where they treat hikers like royalty. Just finished a very soothing foot bath, had a great meal, and may even avail myself of a shower before heading out.

Today I discovered rather painful blisters on my little toes that need lancing, but otherwise I’m holding up amazingly well for an old fart.

I’m currently at mile 109, which is a very respectable pace (at least in my little mind). I would like to wax poetically (or pathetically as the case may be) but am quite frankly too whipped to turn the quips. But, needless to say, it is indescribably wonderful (most of the time) being out here doing this. As always thanks for all the kindness and support that have been shown, as well as all the interest and assistance; I have SOO many examples during my brief time on the trail from multiple sources.

From April 27, 2014. All That matters is the Next Step. (phone updates from zendawg)

The latest phone updates were delivered in a creaking croak due to a wicked cold that swooped down upon John yesterday and left him with a sore throat and a barking cough. Luckily, he’s sleeping off-trail tonight in an inn that provides that most sacred of amenities: a hot water bath. And, so, on to the updates…

April 23

After the previous day’s full bore 23-mile trek, John ratcheted back to a gentler 7 mile day to give the muscles some down time, ending up in Agua Caliente, where he spent the night.

April 24

Fire up the afterburners! A 22 mile day followed by a quick descent into a most restorative sleep.

April 25 – 26

Caught a ride back to the trail’s start for the Annual Day Zero Pacific Crest Trail Kickoff. The Kickoff is a two-day organized event for folks who plan to hike the trail (especially thru-hikers). The event offers informational lectures about the trail and about long-distance hiking, last-minute equipment checks, gear manufacturers peddling their wares, and general camaraderie among the soon-to-be suffering, I mean, hikers.

April 27

Rode back to where he left the trail with a car full of rather exuberant hikers. The wicked cold virus begins its assault. Nonetheless, 15 more miles were logged through dogged application of Buddhist meditation principles:

When fatigue whispered in John’s ear that it was going to take forever to get where he was going, and that the weather sucked, and that hiking with a cold really, really sucked, he brought himself back to the present moment. And then to the next present moment. And then to the next. He focused on each foot as it took a step: left, right, left, right. And the whole tenor of the hike changed. The load lifted, and it no longer mattered how far he got. All that mattered was being present with his steps.

Fifteen miles later he arrived at mile 151 of the trail in Idyllwild-Pine Cove, CA, where the aforementioned inn awaited him with its aforementioned bath and its just-now-mentioned soft mattress and fresh sheets. Tomorrow? Who knows? It all depends on how tenacious the wicked cold turns out to be. A day of rest or a return to the trail? Stay tuned…