Written by John Swart – From October 2014 – I am VERY happy (possibly ecstatic) to report that I completed the Pacific Crest Trail. I reached the Canadian border (mile 2,660) last Sunday about 6 p.m. and hiked eight miles to Manning Park, Canada on Monday to exit the wilderness.
After a rather sumptuous, celebratory breakfast at the Manning Park Lodge, a fellow hiker (one who was sometimes confused with me along the way) and his wife took me to Vancouver. I spent the night in that very delightful city (including a delish meal in Chinatown) and bussed my way to my current location, which is Whidbey Island, Washington—about two hours north of Seattle.
In another act of amazing generosity and kindness, my cousins have offered me unlimited use of their townhouse (complete with car) on Whidbey. I must admit it is not too shabby a place to hang out. From here I can explore the scenic beauty of the San Juan island and the Olympic peninsula, plus acquire much needed rest and relaxation.
So I would like to recap the last days (190 miles) of the trail since my last report from Skykomish (Dinsmore trail angels). After a very pleasant Zero Day (i.e., day of no hiking), I decided to hike out, even though there was a light rain and my motivation and energy were on the low side (possibly a result of the low barometric pressure). This 104-mile section has the reputation of being one of the most—if not the most—difficult on the trail.
The light rain felt rather good at first, lending a very Northwestern ambiance to the forest. I had decided to do low mileage (14 miles), as I had gotten a late start. When it came time to stop, around 6 p.m., I could not find a camp site and was forced to cover what became 21 agonizing miles in heavier rain, darkness, and cold.
Along the way, I fell a few times on the muddy trail. At 9:45 p.m., I finally found a site and had the pleasure of setting up my wet tent in the rain and then trying to get warm. The whole experience was one of the lowest points on the trail for me. I threw quite the tantrum over the experience, as things were definitely not going “my way.” Quite a welcome to this most difficult of trail sections.
All that being said, I am quite thankful all this happened as I gained deeper insight into myself and greater appreciation of my overall circumstances (Trans-non-coincidentalism: a goofy new belief system my friends came up with to express the idea that there are no coincidences in life).
The next day, after initially thinking I simply could not face packing up and hiking in the rain again, I managed to get myself back on the trail. I felt much better for having made the effort, albeit still rather low on energy. The weather broke, I dried out my soggy clothes and equipment, and I gave myself permission to do a short, 14-mile day.
This shorter hike put me at a camping site that had a very beautiful view of the rugged mountains and deep glacial valleys around Glacier Peak. The next morning I awoke energized and excited about hiking into the coming terrain. I was transported into an almost blissful state as I hiked through the indescribable beauty of a ridge with views to Mount Shasta, over 100 miles away. What a contrast to the days previous! For me this is a prime example of the impermanence of mental states, circumstances, et cetera. I was able to maintain a rather high level of focus and awareness for the rest of the day, staying present to my experience.
The following day I continued the hike around the impressive Glacier Peak, which was grueling, difficult, and draining, but replete with scenic wonders. Two more days of hiking, (including one that was quite magical) landed me at the small village of Stehekin. With a population of around 60, Stehekin is quite a charming community. It is located on Lake Chelan, a fiord-like lake which is 50 miles long and the third deepest lake in the U.S.
Stehekin has no road access so can only be reached by ferry or sea plane. The high, steep rock peaks surrounding the lake are reminiscent of Norway. The bakery there is legendary. I took a Zero Day, camping in the rain to recover from the previous section and to wait out the forecasted inclement weather.
As luck would have it, the worst of the weather arrived the day I decided to hit the trail. After 19 miles of drenching rain, I jumped off trail at Rainy Pass (appropriate, huh?). I then hitched 20 miles to a trail angel’s house in Mazama, in search of dryness and warmth.
Mazama is another little gem of an outpost. I stole a hot tub session at the local resort and ate quite well, fortifying myself to hike out in the rain the following day (must get up the trail, you know) to cover the last 68 miles. I didn’t want to delay my departure as there was the possibility of snow forecast for the following Tuesday, and my projected finishing date was Monday.
It was nice to get back on trail with some trail buddies I’d known for a while. The weather broke and I was treated to jaw-dropping beauty as the trail ascended through the rugged, gorgeous Northern Cascades. I made several “beauty” stops along the way, in total awe over the landscape before me. The next morning, however, my tent was covered in ice—yet another wake up call not to tarry too long.
The next two days I covered 25 and 24 miles respectively to get to the border. The weather was clear with perfect hiking temps, and the scenery was as spectacular as any I’d seen on the trail. It was a magical way to end what has been a phenomenal journey. I cannot put into words the absolute blessing of this experience.
During this journey and especially in the last days (even though hiking alone), I could feel the strong presence of all of you who have followed along, supporting and encouraging me. It has truly been an HONOR to walk for the various non-profits you folks have chosen to support. I commend the outpouring of kindness and generosity you have displayed. It certainly confirms my growing awareness that the essence of human nature is kindness and generosity. I feel I have greatly deepened my own cultivation of these qualities as a consequence of the many examples I have experienced along the trail. My heart opens wider.
I will continue to blog in the coming days, but I would like to end with a quote my dear friend Rich posted. “And now here is my secret, a very simple secret: it is only with the heart that one can see rightly. What is essential is invisible to the eye.” (Antoine de Saint Exupéry)
May you all be happy, healthy, free from suffering and harm, at ease in life, and may you live in peace.
Blessings,
Zen Dawg
“I have a penchant for immersion in other cultures and spiritual practices. I consider the forest to be my cathedral where I experience my most intimate communion with my personal divine.”
John Swart has recently spent four months in a yoga Ashram in Virginia, and has embarked on his next adventure which includes travels in Europe and Asia. He will be writing an accompanying blog throughout his travels.
Also while travelling, John plans to work on a book based on his experiences hiking the Pacific Crest Trail, which will greatly expand on his existing blog content.
In October of 2014, John completed the 2,650 mile Pacific Crest Trail.
